Talk Show – In conversation with Hitendra Kapopara

BXqsR2_CcAAFgSu Q1. Tell me about yourself and your career so far, how did you become a fashion stylist? A-Well I am a graduate from the NIFT Gujrat. I came to Mumbai at the age of 19 and I started assisting Bhakti Joshi the designer in 2001. She taught me how the industry works and what it really takes to become a stylist and costume designer. I learned from her the importance of work ethic: work hard and always be nice to people were always her motto. Becoming a stylist was always something I dreamt about. My interest started with early childhood, I used to organize mini shows for my family and friends, and I did all the styling for those shows together with my cousin. With the time, it grew into more serious interest and later it became my passion and my work. Everything after that just fell to place. I worked on the movie “Kambakkht Ishq” which was my first project (2009) I designed costumes for the “ BABY DOLL” song and lately the entire costume designing for “EK PAHELI LEELA” too was done by me.

Q2. What has been the most memorable moment of your career, so far? It has to be SUNNY LEONE’S entrance, which was 3 yrs back, at a New Year eve show hosted in Delhi by her. That’s when I first met her and decided, “SHE NEEDS TO WEAR MY ENSEMBLE”! I was simply awestruck by her beauty and grace.

Q3. What challenges do you have as a stylist? Umm, Research for movies which are based on real life incidents; There is a lot I have to sync in me, the original characters, study their past & present so as to make my fictitious hero’s look real! Time – it is difficult to manage time. My mother always says, “Everybody has 24 hours, spend it wisely and you’ll make things happen”. Somehow though, with all the stress that comes along, I always manage to meet a deadline.

Q4.How do you choose what looks good on each individual client? Firstly I meet them personally so I can know their body type. Every body is unique in their their own way and offcourse the choices also vary. I first know what my client is looking at; and then I add my touch recreating the same look with more of drama. That’s me!

Q5. How would you describe your personal style?     I like easy & street fashion. Linen pants, shorts, floral shirts and hats (my favourite) are my statement pieces. I am my own hairdresser too and am very conscious about it. I take really good care of my hair and I decide my look for every morning in prior.

Q6. Do the clothing choices you make at work inspire your personal style? Workplace means “ethics” for me. We need to understand as stylist’s that we can’t look around for work in our pyjamas! Our profession is to style /give an identity to the person who seeks guidance from us. There is a fine line between personal and professional. They are two different aspects totally. The industry looks up to me and vice versa.

Q7. Everyone loves a good deal, what are some of your favourite places to find budget buys? A In you live in Bombay; then Bandra market hands down! And after that forever 21/ promod..They are not only fast fashion but chic and affordable too.

Q8. What qualities and skills one need to succeed in your job? Curiosity and an open mind are crucial. Also, a lot of love for the industry is required. And last but not least – be really creative in what you do and how you build the brand.

Q9. A trend you love this seoson and a must have this summer ? A   Stuff your Wardrobes with pastel colours. You can do so much with them. A baby pink gunjee with ripped shorts and orange/ floral framed big eyed glasses. Cool and colourfull! Also please own a fringe bad girls. It’s the new hit!

Q10. A trend you love this season and a must have this summer?   Stuff your wardrobes with pastel colours.. You can do so much with them.. A baby pink gunjee with ripped shorts and orange/ floral framed big eyed glasses. Cool and colourfull! Also please own a fringe bad girls. It’s the new hit!

Q11. A trend you love this season and a must have this summer?    Stuff your wardrobes with pastel colours.. You can do so much with them.. A baby pink gunjee with ripped shorts and orange/ floral framed big eyed glasses. Cool and colourfull! Also please own a fringe bag girls. It’s the new hit!

Q12. Any trend you want to see disappearing?

NEONS! The green and the yellow. They not only make you look Broad but ugly too !

Q 13 What styling advice would you give to our readers ? how to become their own stylist?

A-Work and work hard – never give up! Somehow it will come to you. Don’t be afraid to ask for help and always push yourself outside your comfort zone. Also, get some work experience by working with established artists – it’s ok to start from the bottom and work your way up. Dress for yourself. Read more magazine’s , it gives you a lot of exposure to international fashion and broadens your horizons. Fahion is a cycle. Sync with it !

IMAGE REFERENCING

PICTIRE 1: “Hitendra Kapopara“. URL https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BXqsR2_CcAAFgSu.jpg (Accessed on Date: 12th April, 2015 Time: 9:12 pm)

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COME SEPTEMBER

Come-September-rock-hudson-31432261-400-320Come September is a 1961 Romantic comedy film, directed by ROBERT MULLIGAN. Wealthy New York based businessman Robert Talbot owns a beautiful villa in Italy. Evey September he spends a quality time with his girlfriend Lisa Fellini. She is a famous Fashion Designer and deeply in love with Robert Talbot but the problem in their relationship is she only sees Robert during her annual vacation in September. Lisa dreams of marrying Robert , but he is so occupied with his work to think about her other than when he is with her every September. All the people associated with the villa thinks Robert has taken them for granted. Lisa’s friends have finally convienced that she has no good future with Robert not because he not financially sound but because he consider everything secondary , apart from his work. Lisa has reluctantly agreed to a marriage proposal of British Fiance Spencer. After accepting the marriage proposal she plans to tell Robert on his next visit simply by being a newly married women. The scene gets more complicated when Robert unexpectedly comes to Italy before September for a business trip , which catches both Lisa and Maurice by surprise.4995832954_e686d3dd94_b The biggest twist in the movie is that when Robert sees that his luxurious villa was converted into a hotel “La Dolce Vista.” As soon as Robert gets to know about the business he ask Maurice to leave. A group of girls was staying at his villa because they thought that the villa was the hotel. Lisa decided to spend this year with Robert before getting married.It seems that his villa was used for a profitable purpose without the knowledge of the owner. He ask the girls to leave the place but fails because the warden of the young girls is hospitalized and have no other place to stay.Another major twist comes when a jeep load of college boys arrives his place “La Dolce Vista” and pitch tent on the lawn outside the gate, preparing to set up more tents, this makes owner very angry.5003595828_e6d5db038e Another twist of the movie is when Robert gave an advice to one ofthe young girl after they planned a trip together. He protects the girl from those boys and explained them not to get carried away by charming boys. The advice was mis interpreted by Lisa and  her decision of getting married gets more stronger.  He protects the girl from those boys when they goes on a trip together and explained them not to get carried away by charming boys.Robert tries all possible way to get Lisa back but soon Lisa also realizes her love for Robert and goes back to him . Later they both landed up getting married and lived happily after.

REFERENCINGCome September” , (Online) Available at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Come_September , (Accessed on 13th February, 2015, Time : 5:47 PM) “Come September”, (Online) Available at http://www.tcm.com/this-month/article/112324%7C0/Come-September.html (Accessed on 13th February, 2015, Time: 6:15 PM) IMAGE REFERENCING PICTURE 1: “Come September”. URL http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/31400000/Come-September-rock-hudson-31432261-400-320.jpg (Accessed on Date : 13th February, 2015, Time : 6:40 PM) PICTURE 2: “Springtime In Italy”. URL https://happythoughtsdarling.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/4995832954_e686d3dd94_b.jpg ( Accessed on Date: 13th February, 2015, Time : 6:45 PM) PICTURE 3: “Silver Screen Sunday”. URL http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/5003595828_e6d5db038e.jpg (Accessed on Date: 13th February, 2015, Time : 6:50 PM)

ETERNAL SUNSHINE OF THE SPOTLESS MIND

tumblr_m1o566SIHP1qe2w1uo1_1280Eternal Sunshine was realeased in 2004 , Directed and written by a French director Michel Gondry. He won the Academy award for best screenplay In 2004. Many elements had been used for the direction of the movie – Science, Human psychology, thriller etc. The movie depicts the nature of human memory and deep love. It was first released in America .

DIRECTOR : Michel Gondry

STORY BY : Michel Gondry

STAR CAST : Jim Carry, Kate Winslet

Joel Barish and Clementine Kruczynski are attracted to each other, despite the fact that they both are different from each other. They shared a two years relation and got separated after that. It was easy for Clementine to erase all her relationship memories where as Joel visits a doctor “Howard Mierzwaik “. Two days before Valentine’s day he visits his friend and tells them that Clementine is acting very strange as if she does not know his and from there he gets to know that with the help of the doctor she got her memories erased. This was the reason which forced him to undergo the same procedure.

The process started with the last bad phase of his life “ the break up” . Because of the wrong use of machine wire plugs by Patrick, Joel emerging consciousness allows him to enter his memory. Joel was in his own state of mind and simultaneously hears Patrick in present about his new relationship and with that he re experiences his relationship tith Clem and falls in love with her all over again.

The film arrives to the solution that having a spotless mind, does not bring anybody eternal sunshine“.tumblr_lm3un7bbts1qe2w1uo1_500

A person may forget the past but forgetting the memories from past incident is not easy. I believe that we as human beings have an ability to judge truth in words. I think communication is the best way to judge the order person and an invisible energy comes from body language, the way we see people and tells us if there is any truth what is being communicated. This energy is way beyond what we see and feel. Leting go is th hardest thing a person can do. We hold on to many things which are valuable. Eternal Sunshine tell us to accept the things as they are and make the most of what we have when all hope is lost.

“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I,
 I took the one less traveled by And that has made all thedifference.” – Robert Frosttumblr_lxvgg0OY1A1qd4d7jo1_500

After they had their memories erased they both choose the same path again. Destiny was in their favour. I think it’s a perfect ending as we are told its not about the destination , its about the journey.

REFERENCING

Eternal Sunshine Director”, (Online) Available at :”http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0338013/” ,(Accessed on 12th February, 2015 , Time 4:30 PM)

Eternal Sunshine” , (Online) Available at:http://www.writersdigest.com/editor-blogs/guide-to-literary-agents/the-eternal-sunshine-of-the-spotless-mind-synopsis , (Accessed on 12th February, 2015, Time 4:55 PM)

IMAGE REFERENCING

PICTURE 1: “ Eternal Sunshine”. URL http://40.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m1o566SIHP1qe2w1uo1_1280.jpg ( Accessed on Date :12th February , 2015 , Time : 6:45 Pm)

PICTURE 2 : “Eternal Sunshine”. URL https://cinephilefix.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/tumblr_lm3un7bbts1qe2w1uo1_500.jpg (Accessed on Date : 12th February, 2015, Time : 6:50 PM)

 

PICTURE 3: “Eternal Sunshine”. URL http://41.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lxvgg0OY1A1qd4d7jo1_500.jpg (Accessed on Date : 12th February, 2015, Time : 6:55PM)

DIAL M FOR MURDER

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Dial M for murder is 1954 American crime thriller film by Alfred Hitchcock”. The movie is based on a very successful stage play. In London , an affluent Margot Margaret Wendice is married to a professional tennis player Tony Wendice. The plot follows Tony Wendice’s attempt to have his mate, Margot, dead thus he will collect on her insurance policy. He discovered that his wife is having an extra marital relationship with a famous crime writer Mark Halliday. Who is visiting the couple from America. When mark arrives , Margot tells that she had destroyed all the letters but one letter ended up being stolen, consequently she was blackmailed , but she had never reclaimed the stolen letter. Tony plans Margot’s murder and she had no idea that her husband knows of her love for Mark.

He employed the right man to perform the job “Charles Alexander Swann” , calls himself Captain Lesgate. They completed their studies together from Cambridge. Tony uses the chance of Marks return to London to execute his plan. Tony invites Swann to his flat, apparently to buy his car, but tries to convience him to murder his wife. Tony was financially on her, and was scared that she will leave him anytime and will take the money with her. Tony’s plan was barely complicated, it says that “ he’s going to call on his landline number and Swann is going to strangle Margot while answering the telephone.” The plan does not go as it was planned. Before leaving for the business party. Tony steals Margot’s key from her purse and hides under the rug just outside the door for Swann. Tony some how managed to convince Margot to stay at home and asked him to make a photo album when he was a tennis star. According to the plan , Swann enters the flat before 11 and he hides behind the curtains , wait for the telephone to ring sharp at 11 and Margot to come out to answer it. During the party Tony’s watch stopped working and when Tony makes the call it was few minutes past 11 and Swann was planning to leave the house. As expected Margot came to the room to answer the call and when she does the plan goes completely wrong. Swann attacked Margot from behind but Margot turns out to be strong and stabs the scissor in Swann’s back. Soon he realized that he can change the plan and make it look as if Margot was blackmailed by Swann and was killed by her intentionally. Inspector Hubbard discovered that Swann came through the hall rather through the window leading into the garden because his shoes were clean

.Hubbard-and-key-400All arguments revolved around few things (1) Marks letter found with Swann, (2) No key was found on Swann. Tony convinced the inspector that Margot was ready to pay Swann because she was blackmailed by him, but when she met Swann she changed her mind and landed up killing him. Hubbard remained suspicious of Tony and set a trap for him because he got to know that the key was kept under the carpet and fits Swann’s door rather tony’s flat. Inspecter deliberately takes Tony’s raincoat and ask his colleagues to release Margot from prison. She tries to open the door but the key in her bag does not fit the lock and inspector opens the door for her. Both of them wait for Tony to come home. The moment he enters he realizes that he cannot enter because he is wearing Hubbard’s coat. He gets the Margot’s handbag from police station and remember key in her nag was actually Swann’s so he takes out the key from under the carpet and opens the door and he realizes that he has been found out.

CINEMATOGRAPHY

8.all-media-camerarigDial M for Murder was directed by Alfred Hitchcock and the movie was filmed in a 3D format, a process that requires special glasses to view the film. 3D movies were popular during early fifties and Jack Warner ( studio head ) ordered Hitchcock to make Dial M for Murder by using his techniques. The Crumbersome process that was adopted by Hitchcock for direction. He personally selected all the props for the set and even supervised the construction on telephone dial and wanted a close up shot in the film. He faced many technical challenges beause of the bulky cameras. The piece of work which was publicized by Hitchcock was “ Tony Wendice dialing the giant telephone with fake big fingers. Director had to be very careful in setting up the convergence point beyong foreground figures. Warner’s department under the leadership of Al Tondreau designed a new camera which was similar to Technicolor 3D camera.Dial-M-4 In  In Dial M he handled the camera in his own masterful style as he had a history of using special effects perfectly. Some of the 3D examples from the movie- extreme close-up shot of the telephone, macro close-ups on wristwatches. The 3D effect enhanced the creativity of the movie.Dial M he handled the camera in his own masterful style as he had a history of using special effects perfectly. Some of the 3D examples from the movie- extreme close-up shot of the telephone, macro close-ups on wristwatches. The 3D effect enhanced the creativity of the movie.

REFERENCING

Alfred Hitchcock”, (Online) Available at: http://www.alfredhitchcockgeek.com/2010/10/dial-m-for-murder-greatest-3d-movie.html , (Accessed on Date 10th February, 2015, Time: 7:23 PM)

Dial M for Murder “, (Online) Available at: “http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dial_M_for_Murder “ , (Accessed on 10th February, 2015, Time : 8:02 PM)

Dial M for Murder” , (Online) Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046912/ , (Accessed on 10th February , 2015 , Time : 8:30 PM)

RENAISSANCE FASHION

RENAISSANCE

Renaissance was a historical era and a cultural movement in Europe that took place between the 14th and 17th century. It had a huge impact on the history of Europe. The word ‘Renaissance’ is a French word which means “rebirth”. This period is regarded as of great importance because it recorded great developments in intellectual and educational fields and is probably best known for artists and great thinkers of the time such as Leonardo Da Vinci, Galileo, and Michelangelo. Clothing played a significant role in that era, as it was a symbol of wealth that a person possessed. Renaissance period was rich in fashion. Some of the fashion in medieval continued till Renaissance such as

BASQUINE: Materials used in the manufacturing of Basquine were whale bone and leather. Basquine was a boned bodice, it gave the appearance of wider shoulders and tiny waist of women.

BERET: was the hat of Renaissance period and usually tilted towards one side of the head. Beret were considered to be elegant during that ere, velvet was used in manufacturing Beret embellished with a strap of golden line a feather on one side of the hat.

BELSTER: Refers to as a cotton padding tied around the hip line of women to give a proper shape of the body.

NECK WISK: was a form of collar tied around the neck and falling at the front.

MATERIALS USED IN CLOTHING

he clothing varied from fabrics such as silk, brocade, velvet, and cotton. Furs were also popular among those who could afford them, and oftentimes furs were used by the wealthy as lining on the inside of their garments. Jewels were often sewn into the fabrics, and dark colours were able to show those features off more. For the wealthy, style was much more important than function.

CLOTHINGjanegreylabel

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RENAISSANCE CLOTHING

Women’s clothing was considered of high importance in this era because it gave rise to CORSET as fashion. Woman’s attire would have five layers i.e. a SKIRT, UNDERSKIRT, BODICE, OVER – BODICE or VEST , HOOP and COLLAR. One popular fashion was the “Spanish Farthingale” which was a long cone shaped hoop skirt that women would wear with a corset to complete the cone shape. LACED RUFFS were considered fashionable during that era and wore by women arounf their neck.

HEADWEARSrenaissance headdress

Headwear was also popular such as “POINTED CONE ” style that played to the cone fashion for women, as well as lace trimmed veils and various headdresses, such as the popular FRENCH HOOD STYLE. Some headdresses had a woman’s usually long and braided hair completely concealed, while others allowed some or much of the hair to show along with the headwear. Men’s headwear included wide brimmed hats to finish off their ‘square’ look.

MENS FASHION

4166303_origMen would use to wear a shirt with no collar and cuffs and would sometimes use lace collars and cuffs. Over this they would wear a doublet, or fitted top, and finally over that a jerkin, a close-fitting jacket. Men of the working class dressed for profitability. Instead of trousers men would wear hose on their legs. The upper hose were (often poufy) knee-length trousers which were met by the nether hose, or stockings, on the lower leg. Children wore clothes very similar to their parents. Mens shirt were made in lilen mostly in white colour where as The lower classes wore wide sleeved chemises and tight bodices. Another fashion technique which was very popular among the commoners was ‘slashing’ i.e. people would take their shirts (for example) and slash long holes in them and wear them on top of a another shirt, puffing it out through the holes of the first.

COSMETICS IN RENAISSANCE

Mercury, White lead , Vermillion (made from cinnabor) were used in making of powder during Renaissance period. To make the cheecks glow , Mercury was added to white lead powder to give a shine to cheecks.

 

REFERENCING

(1) “Women’s fashion of the Renaissance era”, (online ) Available at : “http://www.citelighter.com/film-media/fashion/knowledgecards/womens-fashions-of-the-renaissance-era”, (Accessed on Date:, 16th December , 2014 Time: 9:25 PM )

(2) “Renaissance”,(online) Available at : “http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/renaissance.htm”,(Accessed on Date:, 16th December , 2014 Time: 9:40 PM)

(3) “Renaissance women’s clothing”,(online) Available at:“http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/r/clothing-and-jewellery/ “, (Accessed on   Date:16th December , 2014, Time: 10:12 PM.)

 

IMAGE REFERENCING

Figure 1:” Renaissance clothing “. URL http://www-personal.umd.umich.edu/~cfinlay/images/janegreylabel.jpg ( Accessed on Date : 16th December , 2014,Time : 11:24 PM)

Figure 2: “ Headwear”. URL https://alishapuri.files.wordpress.com/2014/12/5cdf7-renaissanceheaddress.jpg (Accessed on Date: 16 December ,2014, Time 11:45 PM)

Figure 3 : “Women clothing “. URL https://alishapuri.files.wordpress.com/2014/12/899e4-renaiss.jpg

Lord Of The Rings: The Fellowship Of The Ring : Production Information

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“The greatest feeling of success has been to watch all these bits and pieces of polystyrene and metal and wood become a world so real you believe these characters live there. We’ve painted Tolkien’s palette as much as possible across the film.” —Richard Taylor

J.R.R Tolhttp://Lord Of The Rings: The Fellowship Of The Ring : Production Informationkein’s epic, ‘The Lord of the Rings’ has been many things for many film makers: inspiration, archetype, dare. One of the most ambitious productions ever attempted… under the stewardship of acclaimed director Peter Jackson, who has drawn heavily on the talents of his collaborators, notably Grant Major… ..and now, in the darkness of the worlds cinemas, binds them. But first it was the artistry and labour of the art department that turned a country of several islands into the great and terrible continent of Middle Earth. Eric Lichtenfeld The Scenographer January 2002 …the production Design, cinematography, countless special effects…. are all top-notch. Hollywood Reporter December 4th 2001 …the sets, scenic design, costumes, and props are spellbinding in their authenticity to the book, right down to the smallest details….

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VICTORIAN FASHION

CHANGES IN THE TRENDS OF CLOTHING

CHANGES IN THE TRENDS OF CLOTHING

VICTORIAN ERA

 

The dates of Victorian era (1830-1901) coincide with queen Victoria’s.

During the victorian age , Britain was the worlds most powerful nation .

 

 

EARLY VICTORIAN FASHION

Early victorian phase lasted for 2 decades from 1830-1850 . Fashion was considered the main element during victorian period. Hats were used during the early phase of fashion and their replacement by Bonnets changed the whole character of day dresses. Bonnets stayed in fashion for a half a century. Pleats were used at first to draw up the skirt fabric , but after 1840’s flat pleating came into fashion. To make the skirt look wider extra piece of cloth was added to evening dresses and by 1845 over skirts were used as day dresses. Wider skirts or skirts with heavy fall was made up of stiff fabrics like linen and wool.

 

NATURAL DYES

Natural and pastle colours found in nature were used during victorian peiod. Natural vegetable dyes proced tints & shades of Indigo, subtle green and gold. Throughout the mid victorian phase light colours were considered more suitable for young ladies. Fabrics like silk, cotton, velvets were used for dresses. Velvets were used for formal dresses. Victorian women showed love for colours in their clothing.

 

MID VICTORIAN FASHION (1851-1870)

Corsets & Crinolines

CRINOLINES

CRINOLINES

vicpic-women

Cage Crinolines and body fitted Corsets stayed in fashion during mid phase. Corsets used to make woman’s waist smaller. Wood or steel was used in the makinh of corsets and crinolines. It was also inserted up at the centre to give a perfect line to the dress. Wool or flannel were used

to make petticoats in winters for warmth .Bell shaped skirts were in fashion and had disappeared and a preference for an oval shaped skirt became popular.. With the introduction of crinolines corsets were not tightly laced .

 

LATE VICTORIAN FASHION (1871-1901)

LATE VICTORIAN FASHION

LATE VICTORIAN FASHION

By 1878, Women of late victorian period have a complete different look about them compared to early and mid victorian women. The gowns of 1880’s were made in bright colours. In 1883, skirts remained slim in front and side , but back ballooned. Evening dresses had high shoulders and often without sleeves . The day time necklines became very high,. In 1890’s , the skirt became slim in front and sleeves began to expalnd slowly. More use of frills and collars during this phase .

 

MENS FASHION

MEN'S FASHION

MEN’S FASHION

 

Men wore matching coats, waistcoats and trousers, with hairstyles characterised by large mutton-chop side-burns and moustaches, after the style set by Prince Albert.Shirts had high upstanding collars and were tied at the neck with large bow-ties.High fastening and tight fitting frock coats were also very fashionable; though a new style called the sack coat (a thigh-length, loosely fitted jacket) became popular.The bowler hat was invented around 1850, but was generally seen as a working class hat, while top-hats were favoured by the upper classes.

REFERENCING

(2) “ The victorian web ”. Available at: www.victoriaweb.org/art/costume/nunn13.html/ , ( Accessed on 15 December ,2014, Time : 9:15 Pm )

IMAGE REFERENCING

  

Figure 1 : “ Fashion During Victorians”, URL http://belminpilevneli-va312.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-victorian-era.html (Accessed on 15th December,2014 , Time : 11 :00 Pm )

Figure 2 : “Girls Girls Girls “, URL http://therumpus.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/vicpic-women.jpg ( Accessed on 15th December,2014, Time; 11:04 PM )

Figure 3: “ The Crinoline “ , URL http://victorianparis.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/crinoline1.jpg ( Accessed on 15th December, 2014 ,Time : 11:05 PM )

Figure 4 :” Victorian Dresses” , URL http://www.victorianchildren.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/victoriandress92.jpg?w=540 (Accessed on 15th December ,2014, Time : 11:07 PM )

Figure 5 :” 1860’S Men’s Clothing “, URL http://www.victoriana.com/Fashion/Mens-Clothing/images/1868-6.jpg (Accessed on 15th December , 2014 ,Time 11:10 PM)